I was a little skeptical about visiting Zimbabwe, a country that has had a lot of bad press over the past few years and understandably so. But having spent a few weeks having a pretty easy time of it (well, easy compared to the toils I'd faced further north) bumpling along the well trodden tourist route in East Africa and Malawi I wanted to get back to seeing Africa and its people. More importantly the most direct route to Cape Town takes you through Zimbabwe and when your starting to run out of puff you don't want to make your life any harder than it has to be.
Asking around a bit and talking to the many Zimbabwean ex-pats who have left the country I got the impression that the country was slowly starting to find its feet again and would be safe enough to go through.
I'd been warned about the frequent police roadblocks. Just in case Uncle Bob forgets to pay these entrepreneurial chaps have developed a cunning second income by taxing drivers as they pass by – their own version of a toll road. I've got to say it looked like they were doing a roaring business. These type of small business initiatives are hardly uncommon in Africa but almost everyone I asked for advice on the country seemed to got very excited about it. I'd been warned.
I've managed to develop the knack of talking my way out of most of these roadblocks without being persuaded to pay any notional fines / taxes / tolls all the way through Africa and wasn't really too concerned. But I must say the chaps in Zimbabwe they did seem particularly enthusiastic at getting money out of me.
When I approached them I can see their eyes light up thinking that this is going to be the payday to end all paydays. Normally what happens is that when I roll up the chap in charge starts asking me a few questions whilst everyone else goes into a huddle to discuss how they're going to spend my money.
The chap in charge is used to dealing with tourists in vehicles. I guess he normally sets about finding something wrong with either the vehicle or the vehicle's paperwork threatens a big fine and agrees an on the spot fine without any receipt would be much easier to organize and as a result settle out of court for a few dollars before bidding you on your way. A very straightforward, quick and easy transaction.
A tourist on a pushbike presents a few problems for the chap manning the roadblock. First of all as a tourist I'm sure he's expected to produce at least double the normal bribe. Anything less would be seen as failure. The second problem is that there aren't really any laws for for bicycles so you can hardly create a fine for not being in a roadworthy condition and there simply isn't any paperwork to get wrong. In addition cyclists tend not to be in too much of a hurry and when they're as idle as I am are looking for any excuse to put their feet up and not have to do anymore pedaling.
I can see the panic in the man's face. He's under pressure to perform here. He has got to produce something. Then comes the list of questions; what are you doing? whats your profession? (don't ever say surveyor or they'll have you out inspecting Chinese roadworks), are you a journalist? Are you sure you're not a journalist?
Paranoia sets in amongst the policeman that I'm an undercover British journalist who Uncle Bob has banished from the country. Bugger James Bond this is serious stuff.
The problem the chap now faces is that he hasn't got any proof that I'm actually journalist and more importantly he hasn't managed to extract any cash out of me yet.
Nothing happens for the first hour or so and its mid afternoon. I'm happy watching the world go by but they're getting nervous. Everyone who passes asks about me, what I'm doing. People come along from the next village for a chat and I explain that I've not been allowed to continue but that it's not a problem as I'm in no hurry don't really see the point in trying to bribe my way out of it.
It was only when I started to pitch my tent and set up for the night that the policemen changed their tune. Suddenly they realised that there would be none of my dollars discreetly coming their way and they were starting to get concerned about the number of people asking questions about me and that I'd give their whole game away.
Eventually they managed to banished me to a local hotel.
One of the most fascinating aspects of Zimbabwe's recent past has been the economic turmoil that Uncle Bob's economic policies managed to create. Turning a country that was once was known as the bread-basket of Africa into a bankrupt state where a loaf a bread costing a mere 100 billion dollars today would cost 200 billion dollars next month. Pretty amusing for those of us not inflicted by it but very tough for everyone trying to live and operate in the country.
Fortunately last year Mugabe ditched the Zim Dollar and permitted the use of foreign currency – legalising what was already happening on the ground. The result is that the country now officially runs on a combination of US Dollars, South African Rand and Botswana Pula. Makes life somewhat confusing when shops list their prices in three different denominations.
The exchange rates between these three currencies is a matter of debate amongst your average Zimbabwean. Those in Harare insist you get 10 SA Rands to the US Dollar whilst 450km down the road in Bulawayo they swear its only 8. I'm not sure if thats how a free market economy is supposed to work? Surely there must be people driving up and down swapping cash and making a killing.
The best fun is when you go into a shop and pay up in US dollars. As only US Dollar bills have reached Africa there's no way of giving you change so you get given it in penny sweets. Two cents for a mint, three for a toffee... I don't complain. I've seen people sell them back to the shop as well so it works both ways – who needs currency when you've got penny sweets?
Although I didn't really go off the main routes or manage to see the whole country I didn't see any real food or fuel shortages. Yes sometimes shops run out of things and you have to hunt around and I'm sure it didn't use to be like this but its a lot, lot better than some of the other places I've been to. I always managed to get something to eat which is more than can be said for parts of Sudan and Ethiopia. Whilst I did see some poverty in comparison to what we're used to in Europe it's not poverty compared to what I've seen elsewhere in Africa. Thats not to say it isn't a disgrace the country finds itself in the position its in.
The most adhering thing about Zimbabwe was the people. They don't complain about the tough time they've had and seem so positive about the future and absolutely delighted to see me. They and the stunning scenery made it one of my favorite countries on this trip.
Those of you traveling around Southern Africa please do give Zimbabwe a chance. Things aren't perfect but they are a lot better than a few years ago. More importantly you will meet some of the world's most charming people and by spending your dollars in their local restaurants and shops you'll help them get back up on their feet.